2016-06 Bali & Lombok

12/6/2016 – Bali by surprise

I surprised myself when I took my ticket to Bali. A whim, an impulse. A person I had met in India was there, I wished to see it, and without great attraction for Bali, the mention of the island of Lombok and its volcano seduced me. The time and the mood at home were not excellent, I needed to take the air, the wide, and go ahead of my impulse. I arrived on Bali Island dashingly and dapper after almost a day of flying, I was greeted with all the honors but very quickly it turned out that it would be short lived. I was not seduced by Ubud, the ‘beverly hills’ of the rice fields or the chic boutiques and restaurants follow one another at the guesthouses with the traditional Balinese decoration. Certainly very refined, this decoration is everywhere, finely carved statues, stone, porches, Balinese gods, Ganesh, Buddha paintings, this became very quickly oppressive to me. Mass tourism, like the one I had met in Thailand, also contributed to my discomfort. Fortunately, I was able to reach the island of Lombok by fast boat and be taken in hand by the company of trek to go to the discovery of the Rinjani Volcano. Only me and my friend got off the boat in Lombok, all the other young passengers, fun and tanned with beer, went to the island of Gili T, which made me want to go there even. My friend having planned to do the trek later with another traveler, he went to a beach to wait for that person. For my part this trek was one of the reasons to come to this area, so I organized a departure the next morning with a direct transfer organized by the trek company to the starting point to spend the night there. I arrived at the center in the late afternoon, Wednesday, I had just enough time to go bathing near sublime and very big waterfalls. I could not dwell on it too much, for the night was coming, but I was there alone and it was a very beautiful moment to feel the power and the breath of the water that was falling close to me. My first impression of the island of Lombok is good. It’s quiet, more rural, less developed than Bali and the tourist attraction is more focused on the volcano and less on party and alcohol, making the atmosphere more breathable. This island is predominantly Muslim, people are warm and welcoming, men as well as women. I will have to go to the beaches at some point, but I do not feel a great attraction, it’s very weird. But I will wait to be there to finalize my opinion.

My pre-trek night, I decide to read to find sleep. I do not read much because I like to learn from my experience of life and selectively and sporadically from the narrative of that of others. I had downloaded a few months ago some books from Krishnamurti, I started one. I’m on the ass, I think the purpose of this trip is actually to read this book, at this very moment the subject and method of this gentleman speak to me and give me the direction I needed in my reflective practice And meditative. This reading frees me, I will be able to enjoy the trek and the meditative dimension of walking to try to live in the present fully and thus free me of thoughts and reflections that pollute me in everyday life. This book confirms to me many of my ideas and gives me this extra step to facilitate the emotional detachment with which I struggle, and which, these last days will have been once again strained. Everything has a meaning, I am delighted, delighted to live what I live, I regret nothing, my path of discovery of me and life continues in rhythm and timing. Thank you life.

12/6/2016 – Rinjani volcano trek

This treck was simply phenomenal. The landscape, the routes, the encounters have formed an absolutely sublime whole.

The route includes 5 steps in three days. Every day around 100 people leave for the summit in groups of 2 to 8 people. My group is composed of 8 people, 1 guide and 4 porters who carry water, food and camping equipment. A couple of Chinese women who start off on the spot and quickly calm down. A young German and his Dutch girlfriend met in Bali, they are not prepared for such a serious journey and climatic conditions of high altitude, they will suffer, as a French woman from Strasbourg, Émilie, who is highly motivated will take a shock during the First pass “to peak”, but she will end up delighted with his exploit. A young couple from Grenoble, experienced trekkers, super friendly who appreciate all the challenges and beauties of the course. And I, who complete the group, trekeur late with good legs and willing to take pleasure at every step, to walk alone, at my own pace, as far as possible groups, conversations and noise. I would walk without stopping too often, often at the head of the clusters of walkers, following the porters, agile, strong and experts of the terrain and the course.

The first day we leave from Sembulum at 1156m to join the base camp at 2639m. This course is planned in 7 hours with breaks. I have a few provisions (almonds, chocolate) to be able to nibble while walking and so walk alone and in my head at my rate, not particularly fast, but sustained. We start by crossing fields, then low meadows with tall grass in which is cut a passage. The vertical drop is soft enough to start and the ground is soft and soft in brown earth. I take off my shoes and walk barefoot for nearly two hours, I gain the respect of the wearers and especially the sensation of direct contact of my foot plant on this soft and soft soil. The other walkers think that it is painful and courageous, it is quite the opposite. Then a change of ground makes me rechusser, the difficult part of the course of the day can begin. The ground becomes rocky with gravel, the unevenness becomes serious and perilous, the breath starts to run short, the soil is slippery because of the gravel and it goes up steeply. I take my time and mark pauses to catch my breath and help my heart slow down. I am delighted to have been able to spend this moment alone with the porters far ahead of the groups of walkers. I would be rewarded on my arrival by a small group of porters who invite me to share their dish of vegetable noodles. I take the opportunity to dry my Tshirts soaked by the effort, I rest with the porters while waiting for the arrival of the trekeurs which will range from 30 minutes to 3 hours after my arrival. The encampments are all along the crest, we have the view on the top of the crater which is at 3726m. The night falls, the temperature drops, people who did not understand that the climate of altitude is different than that of the beach begins to feel the cold and worry for the journey of the next day.

The second day will be long, very long with three sectors to cover. The first one starts in the middle of the night at around 2:30 am from 2639m to climb to 3726m for the sunrise, then back down in sliding mode in the lava balls to the base camp for breakfast. Then we will descend on the shores of the lake to 2000m or a swim in hot springs will allow to relax muscularly and mentally before lunch. In the afternoon, the third and last area, we will climb in hiking / climbing mode on the opposite ridge of the crater at 2461m. I would not go to the top of the crater, struck by the icy wind and loneliness. I stop 30 minutes before the summit, can be 200 m below. I would be rewarded with a descent as a dancer, alone, intoxicated, happy and contented, I would not have had that feeling of freedom and contact with this magical place if I had reached the top and the crowd. It also allows me to shower at the source of drinking water, because the descent into the lava is too too dusty, but so happy. The descent to the lake is pleasant, but the descents are always more tiring and sometimes dangerous for the knees and the ankles. I feel a pinch in the back of my right ankle, I calm my rhythm and I take advantage of the bath in the hot springs to try to rest. Since the beginning of my stay, I have not slept much with the accumulation of travel, jet lag, emotions, and now altitude, I have to take care of myself, I take rest thanks to my advance. The last stretch of the day will be exhausting and exultant. It begins along the lake, climbing in the undergrowth before attacking a first ascent in the undergrowth, then climb two climbs with large rocks and sometimes acrobatic passages climbing. With the French couple, we will reach the summit in front with 1 to 2 hours ahead of our comrades. The camp has gone up, I rest, I could sleep a little, but not too much. The third and last day, the descent to Senaru at 600m. I would admire the sunrise on the ridge with the view of the summit and the columns of walkers gone to his ascent to the other side. I decided to do the final descent alone without stopping to join my trek organizer at the earliest, to get my taxi and boat transfer to one of the Gili Islands hoping to get there in the afternoon. I inform my guide and start the descent. It’s slippery, it’s junk, walkers with their sticks blur the brushes, I decide to put myself in mode near the ground and I glide directly sitting on my left foot and right leg stretched in front Who guides me through the turns, my hands balance me. People laugh, but I go forward and I do not fall. On the next slippery but less abrupt part, the best method is that used by the wearers, it is that of the race. Indeed of running allows to stay more on the points of feet, to have a less heavy contact with the ground and thus to avoid falls backwards. It works, but it’s trying on the legs and knees, but once in the rhythm, well, we dance. The next stretch is in the dense jungle, the roots make the ground stable and give points of support, but are also obstacles to avoid. The unevenness is sometimes rough, my pace is very fast in front of the porters. I arrive at destination more than three hours before the scheduled time, I negotiate the transfer, I shower, I connect before climbing in the taxi towards the port. The trek is finished, I am filled, gently, but surely my legs and my knees are quivering and bending, the double effect kiss kool has arrived. The introspective, meditative, sensory aspect of the walk allowed me to work On detachment, the notion of the present moment. I feel freer, clearer, more awake and sweeter than ever. Two quotes have emerged: BBK, body, breath, karma – The only truth is now

13/6/2016 – Gili gili on rigole hihihi

The Gili Islands are three in number, one succeeding one another off Lombok. They are small, without cars, walking, cycling, electric scooters or horse-drawn carts.

They are a coral reef, so the beaches are of white coral sand. The depth of the water is low as the amplitude of the tide, on the other hand there are currents which makes the swimming unpleasant. At the level of the funds I did not go very far, there were not fishes, the coral being dead. There are diving areas, but I did not feel like doing anything other than resting and writing. I found a small bungalow facing the beach, very rustic, but has 12 euros a night. My muscles are terrible, I stretch, but it will take a few days to dissipate. I only stay two nights on Gili air, white coral beaches it is very beautiful picture, but it is quite boring unless you want to spend your day under a parasol watching excessively salty water and Who lives very little. Tomorrow morning I take a boat to reach the east coast of Bali Island, the Amed area or the beaches are black volcanic sand and which sits in the jungle of the volcano.

17/6/2016 – Return to Bali, Amed, Lovina and Munduk

The boat brought me from Gili to Bali in the eastern region of Amed. The crossing was swift and sweet. The area of ​​Amed is less touristy because the beaches are not conducive to lazing around and surfing, but are a delight for diving. I found a very nice room overlooking the sea and the infinity pool at a canon price. The coral garden is right in front of my hotel, I had only to put on the fins and put on the mask to walk freely among the roof coral type, size and color and swim in the middle of the fish. I did two strolls one in the afternoon and the other in the early morning, it was a treat. After my breakfast, I took the road again with a driver found the day before in the direction of the beach of Lovina further north. I had agreed several stops en route to visit the Tirta Ganga, a water garden, a waterfall and a kind of thermal spring by the sea. Only the waterfall will be memorized and I arrive in Lovina around 3pm with a little rain Which refreshes atmosphere and allows me to visit several hotels without getting too hot. I find a beautiful room very well air-conditioned with direct access on the beach and a small private garden. There is not much to do in Lovina, it’s perfect, I need to rest and have a good night’s sleep. The next day after a morning bath, I have breakfast and I find a driver to take me to the Munduk area in the back country on a volcano or I booked a room for two nights. The hotel I booked is actually quite far from Munduk and the natural sights that I would like to visit, but it is a very nice place in the middle of the rice fields, close to a nice and big waterfall. They also provide A / R transfer for Munduk which is perfect. The icing on the cake is that I find myself in a room, bungalow, great luxury with a terrace right in the rice fields cut off from other residents. I do not know why I had the right to this upgrade, because the other rooms are much smaller, less private and much less beautiful. The whole foot, I rest, I take my time, I stroll, I take the sun by the pool. Tomorrow I would leave the rice fields and this area to go down to the beach. It will be Seminyak for two nights before resuming my plane to Paris on Sunday. Seminyak is the ‘fashion’ and ‘gay’ beach of Bali. I do not think that will necessarily please me very much, but I think nevertheless to find my account. I will in any case be able to try various massage benefits which is always very important for me and the professional part of my travels.

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